Visitors to Jerusalem may occasionally notice distinguished men in traditional uniforms carrying ceremonial staffs during major Church celebrations. These are the Kawas — a living symbol of the long and continuous Christian presence in the Holy Land.
The “Kawas” (also spelled Kawass, plural: Kawasin). The tradition dates back to the time of the Ottoman Empire, when kawas served as official guards and escorts for foreign consuls and Christian leaders. Their presence ensured protection and signified recognized status within the complex social and religious fabric of the region.
Today, kawas continue to serve in a ceremonial role, particularly during important liturgical celebrations connected with the Custody of the Holy Land and the Latin Patriarchate of Jerusalem, especially at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
Their role is no longer one of security, but of honor and tradition. They escort bishops and patriarchs, help maintain order during solemn ceremonies, and represent centuries of Christian continuity in Jerusalem.
Shadi, Saliba and William at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Interviewer: Shadi Nakhleh Saleh what does it mean to be a Kawas in Jerusalem?
It means walking with the weight of history in your hands — and guarding something invisible. We are more than guards. We are witnesses. We protect the dignity of the moment, the path of the Patriarch, the silence of prayer. We serve the churches… and through them, we serve peace.
To be a Kawas in Jerusalem means carrying a deep history and a great responsibility at the same time. We do not only guard people; we guard the sanctity of the place, the moment, and traditions that go back centuries. Our presence symbolizes respect, order, and service to the Church and the community. Through our service, we help preserve the spirit of peace and coexistence in this holy city
Your uniform is striking. What is its origin?
Our uniform comes from the Ottoman days. The fezzes, the gold embroidery, the staff — all symbols of authority, respect, and tradition. Back then, the Kawas were like diplomatic bodyguards. Today, it’s mostly ceremonial… but our role still carries deep meaning, especially here in the Holy Sepulchre.
Our uniform dates back to the Ottoman era. The fezzes, gold embroidery, and the staff are all symbols of authority, respect, and tradition. In the past, the Kawas served like a diplomatic bodyguard accompanying important figures. Today, our role is mostly ceremonial, but it still carries deep meaning, especially here in the Holy Sepulchre.
Are you Christian?
Yes. Most Kawasin are Arab Christians. My family is Greek Orthodox, though we serve all the Churches here. In the Old City, we grow up hearing Latin chants, from the Lutheran community, but we belong to the Latin community, Armenian bells, and Arabic prayers. This is normal for us. It’s part of the same melody.
That’s really beautiful! It seems that religious and cultural diversity is an important part of your daily life, making the experience of faith rich and multifaceted.
Do you feel that you’re part of something bigger?
Always. When I lead the procession of the Holy Fire on Holy Saturday, or walk before the Latin Patriarch on Palm Sunday… I feel the centuries behind me. The footsteps of saints. The hope of millions. I may just be walking… but I know I walk for others.
When I participate in spiritual ceremonies or lead processions, I sense that I am part of a legacy that spans centuries, and my steps are not just my own—they carry the hopes of others. These moments remind me that what we do today contributes to a story much bigger than ourselves.
Shadi, Saliba and William at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem
Have you ever faced challenges in this role?
Of course. There are tensions, disputes between communities, political stress, tourists pushing. But my job is to keep the peace, to keep the procession moving, to guard the sacred. Sometimes with strength, sometimes with calm words. Always with dignity.
It shows a balance between firmness and wisdom in handling challenges. It highlights that you protect values and the community with disciplined and mindful dedication.
What moment moved you the most in all your years?
Once, I was leading a small procession for an elderly bishop. Behind him walked a man in a wheelchair, a pilgrim from India. When we entered the Holy Sepulchre, he began to cry. He said, “I never thought I’d reach here alive.” That broke me. At that moment, I realized: this job is not just a ceremony — it is service to the soul.
The story truly touches the heart, reminding us that the highest service we can offer is to the soul and humanity. Moments like these give our work real meaning
What message would you give to young Christians in the world?
My message to young Christians around the world is: Never forget your roots and your faith. We are Christians in the land of Christ—few in number, yet strong. Pray and call for peace, and protect the holy places—not just the stones, but the people, the memory, and the mission. And if God grants you strength, be servants of peace.
By Blanca Ramirez, Saxum Visitor Center Manager